Twisting it with burnt fingertips and cutting with miniature scissors, sugar art master Kim Han quickly forms a bunch of grapes from molten sugar in front of his students: a group of experienced chefs in the central kitchen of Nagaworld Casino and Hotel.
When Khmer Times last saw Mr. Kim in July, he was weary and tired from working in the hot sun. Peddling his beautiful works of intricate sugar art, he would travel 20 kilometers into town to sell each hand-sculpted candy to kids and admirers for about 1,000 riel ($0. 25) to $3 each. Now, he is happily teaching three dessert chefs the skills of his trade in a modern kitchen.
The three chefs watching Mr. Kim’s lessons have a total of 18 years between them working as chefs in NagaWorld, yet all are in awe of how fast the man in front of them can shape the hot sugar into such intricate artwork.
The culinary director of Nagaworld, Marcus Moore, was impressed by Mr. Kim’s skills.
“When I first met him, he brought me this beautiful sugar dragon to show me that was really good,” Mr. Moore said. “We started talking and I saw he had a real passion and a real heart for what he does.”
Mr. Kim was hired for a month to teach the kitchen staff the basics of sugar sculpting.
The first month had been a big change for him because of how many years he spent working tirelessly and testing his sweetened products. This is a strange time for the Sugar Man. Although he is finally reaping the rewards of his hard work, he has also been hit with a dose of bad news. Mr. Kim recently found out he has diabetes.
Candy Diamonds
Mr. Kim started making Candy Diamonds or “Skaw Pich” in 1981. In his free time, Mr. Kim teaches young children in the countryside in a school he supports with his sales. Slowly saving to open a small school on the outskirts of the city, Mr. Kim is happy to pass on his skills before retiring and committing himself fully to teaching.
But near the end of the contract, the 58-year-old had barely touched the surface of such a difficult art. Mr. Kim’s contract has been extended for another month.
This is a strategic move on the part of Nagaworld as they ready themselves for the food and cake designing competition that will be held in Siem Reap this year. Admitting the sugar skills will help greatly in the cake decorating contest, Mr. Moore was eager to see how sugar will change the game. “Last year we were lucky to win a few awards,” Mr. Moore said modestly. “We won the international cuisine award.”
The Sweet Legacy
Currently Mr. Kim’s students are learning how to make sugar animals for each of the zodiac years in Chinese astrology. The next lesson will be on how to make the roses that made Mr. Kim famous in the Wat Botum area.
Grateful to see his work be appreciated and to have the opportunity to teach students who will continue to usher the ancient art of sugar diamonds into the modern world, Mr. Kim can now take care of himself and set aside money for the school he has been supporting for many years in the countryside.
In the air conditioned kitchen and fitted in a white chef’s uniform, Mr. Kim no longer had a grimacing frown while making candy. He smiled in appreciation as he watched experienced chefs all practicing the basics of the craft he had spent years perfecting.
“I am satisfied,” he said as he smiled tearfully. “I know my work will live on and that I am teaching people who have the passion to do sugar art.”
Grinning proudly, he said, “I can’t wait to show them how to do Santa Claus!”